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:rotfl:
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Hmmm...nothing better than watching a video of a twin turbo 850 hp Cobra running 11.90s at 121. lol
Sounds like the local frum roll big dyno Cobra.
Where's the video of the mid 11 ET?
Not too impressive since many from the blue oval crowd say they run mid 12s with 360-370 rwhp "stock". Wonder which is true?
Maybe he should remove the right headlite, take out the back seat and take the wipers off for better ET. lolComment
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Sounds like the one I saw on the speed channel the other day '06 mustang 4.6 with a BIG turbo running 12's :lol:Comment
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I guess I'll watch anything that they play Metallica's Orion to.
Perhaps it's a 1/2 mile'rI can't have nothin nice. Been there wrecked that.
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. Good point about the tunes! Lol. From what Ive seen, you're right about them being 1\2 milers.Originally posted by Mudtrux View PostComment
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Originally posted by HOTCIVIC View Post
:rlol: :lol:
There is more stupidity than hydrogen in the universe, and it has a longer shelf life. - Frank ZappaComment
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This kinda reminds me of those who have 2,000-watt stereo systems in their rides, yet their systems still sound like shit. No fidelity - raspy highs, honky mids, and terrible sounding fart-bass with no definition. Hell - with 2,000 watts, I've filled many clubs and auditoriums with chest-thumping sound. If you need more than a few hundred watts to get kick-ass, thumping sound in something as small as a car's interior, somebody screwed up big-time...
:rotfl:There is more stupidity than hydrogen in the universe, and it has a longer shelf life. - Frank ZappaComment
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LMFAO!:rlol:Originally posted by HOTCIVIC View Post
Don't show that around TCS. They'll kick your ass right outta there mang.Comment
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You should give me some tips on my system. I only have like 1,100 watts tho.Originally posted by Fast One View PostComment
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Hotcivic,Originally posted by HOTCIVIC View Post
I'd like to hear your system sometime. Must listen first, then give advice - if needed.
In general, my thoughts for any high-fidelity audio system are to always spend the most money you can afford to spend on efficient, flat-response drivers (requires some homework to find the driver that will operate in in the flattest part of its frequency response curve in the enclosure you have). Speakers are, by far, the most important part of an audio system. Watt ratings on drivers are meaningless when it comes to determining how loud a system will play or how good it will sound. Watt ratings are mostly advertising hype. Kinda like advertised HP numbers on cars...
One of the most important numbers for a driver is the efficiency - usually expressed as so many dB SPL @ 1 watt @ 1 meter away. Comparing two drivers - if one's rated at, say, 88 dB, and the other is rated at, say, 94 dB, the one rated @ 94 dB will sound exactly as loud with only 25% of the power as compared to the one rated at 88 dB!
So....always go with the most efficeint drivers you can afford, and choose them to provide the flattest frequency response possible, given the listening environment. Since watts are going for couple of bucks each nowadays, why waste them by dissipating them as heat? Much better to make sound with those watts, as that's what you bought them for.
Good speakers will make a cheap stereo sound as good as it can possibly sound, while poor speakers will make even the best system sound like crap. It's kinda like tires on a car. A car with all the power & fancy suspension in the world will perform like crap with poor tires, but even a mediocre car's handling will improve dramatically with a decent set of tires.
Regarding amps - choose amps with low TIM numbers, (THD is not as important, as few humans can detect THD below 0.1%), high slew rates, and high damping factors at low frequencies (rated @ 100 Hz is good). Make sure the distortion rating is from 20 Hz - 20 kHz, and at full rated power. Anything less shows that the manufacturer is trying to hide something. Power ratings are deceiving, as well. The only meaningful power rating is one that uses RMS watts over the entire frequency range at a particular distortion level. Like this: 200 watts RMS into 8 ohms, 20 Hz - 20 kHz with no more than 0.05% THD. Some try to make the numbers look better by rating their amps at 1 kHz, and/or by not specifying the distortion level, and/or by using fake, meaningless watt ratings, like "Music Power". Also, higher dynanmic range is a good thing. Always build in at least 6 dB of headroom - preferably more, if you can afford it.
Regarding heads - well, dynamic range, noise floor, TIM, and THD are important. Ditto for having a good eq and/or DSP section. I prefer at least a 24-bit DSP. Having enough voltage at the line-outs to drive external amps without picking up noise is important. Regarding active crossovers I'm not a big fan of built-in crossovers. I prefer active crossovers with 24 dB/octave slopes that use Linkwitz-Riley filters. My preference for DACs is to go with good 24-bit Burr-Brown or Cirrus DACs.
If you're serious about wanting some advice, I'd like to listen to your system. I'll bring my reference CDs that I use for choosing my personal audio gear and for setting up & equalizing the various PA systems that I run for the Kurt Jorgensen Band.
Ok - I've done enough thread-jacking for today.
Shoot me PM & we can find a time that works...There is more stupidity than hydrogen in the universe, and it has a longer shelf life. - Frank ZappaComment
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